[One little caveat: almost all of this list is vegetarian. Don’t freak out. Georgia’s vegetarian fare is stellar and you, yes even YOU MEAT EATERS, will devour and love it. It’s good stuff.] 

He stared down at the one plate on the table that I hadn’t touched at breakfast…a plate laden with sliced ham.

“I’m sorry, I don’t eat meat,” I said sheepishly, looking down at my hands to avoid eye contact.

I knew all too well the look he was giving me; I’d seen I many, many times before. Like a confused puppy – head cocked to one side, eyes searching.

“No meat?” he perplexedly asked.

“No. No meat for me.”

“Hmmm.”

This happens both at home and abroad nearly every time that I reveal that I’m a vegetarian – particularly in places that are known for their love of meat. It can be like wearing a scarlet V, vegetarian; an almost dirty word to some.

Luckily Tito (the owner of my Guesthouse) didn’t ridicule or ask the most frequent question I get …”Why?” He simply shook his head and removed the plate from the table.

The following morning, the plate of ham was noticeably absent from my breakfast spread. In it’s place? A dish of bright orange caviar.

Tito was beaming, “Not meat!”

Ha. No, technically I guess not. Gah. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that seafood and caviar still fall under the category of “meat” for me (I’ve actually just never liked seafood).

So there the vegetarian sat eating caviar for breakfast in the Caucuses. But I couldn’t help grinning about how unexpected and yet quintessentially lovely it was (aside from, ya know, the thought of what I was putting in my mouth).

But how did I eat it?

Luckily time spent in Russia had prepared me for this encounter. Personally, I couldn’t stomach the thought of eating it naked (the caviar, not me), in petite, controlled spoonfuls. Purists insist that this is the only way to truly enjoy the taste and complexity of the caviar.

But, yeah, that wasn’t my concern – the taste was exactly what I didn’t want to “enjoy.” So I opted for the other socially acceptable consumption route, grabbing a few plain crackers and daintily sprinkling the caviar atop.

Tito watched with pride and satisfaction.

_________

Often, how we eat plays a role in the way that we’re perceived by those around us. Every culture has social norms and a “right” way to eat certain foods – ever judged someone for eating their pizza with a fork? Umhmm.

In Georgia, things are no different. How you eat particular foods will immediately distinguish you as a foreigner, or as someone who knows their shit. I prefer to be in the latter group and minimize the gawking and laughter that often follows when you eat something the “wrong” way.

So let’s start with something close to home…

Khachapuri

This is probably the most common food in all of Georgia – it’s served with nearly every meal. Think of it like a daily slice of pizza, but with a thicker crust, no sauce and Sulguni, a pickled cheese. There are a ton of variations of this dish and some types even include an egg on top (if you’re fancy).

Khachapuri has been a staple for centuries and was so important in Georgian society that the cost to make it was once used to calculate changes in inflation.

You have two options when eating khachapuri: 1) Pick it up like a slice of pizza and eat it BUT, no folding the thing in half! Sorry New Yorkers. 2) You can cut it up, but into large, almost-won’t-fit-in-your-mouth pieces and then eat it with a fork. (This is much more acceptable with aforementioned egg topped variety).

Khinkali

Basically Georgia’s version of a dumpling (and really, who doesn’t love dumplings?!). While khinkali are often filled with spiced meat and herbs, there are several vegetarian versions that incorporate mushroom, veggies and cheese.

There is a distinct art to eating khinkali and much like Chinese Xiaolongbao, it’s essential to know the trick before digging in.

Step 1: Grab the Khinkali by its handle and flip the dumpling upside-down.

Step 2: Bite a hole in the side and suck out any juice the might be inside.

Step 3: Continue eating dumpling.

Step 4: Eat dumpling down to the handle and then discard the stub. This step will make or break you – no Georgian eats the handle. It’s part of the dumpling purely for utilitarian purposes. If you eat it, you’ll automatically be outed a silly foreigner!

Churchkhela

I’ll admit, for several days I saw churchkhela in market stalls, but I had no idea what it was. It looked like sausage? Or handmade candles?

But then I found out that these long red and purple sticks, hanging in bunches, were actually walnuts and hazelnuts strung on twine and then dipping in Tatara – a concentrated grape juice thickened with flour. Just try and get your head around that for a minute.

It’s got a chewy consistency, but rich flavors due to the Tatara, which lends a unique color and taste based on which grapes were used to make it.

Meaning, every region of Georgia has unique looking and tasting churchkhela. Both logical and awesome.

There is really only one way to eat this stuff – bite into it like a Slim Jim! Yup, really. For centuries it was the preferred snack of travelers and migratory populations because it’s non-perishable and easy to eat on the go.

Badrijani

Oh man, this is my absolute favorite Georgian dish! Imagine grilled slices of eggplant smothered in a walnut and garlic sauce and then folded over on itself, creating little layers of creamy, garlicky, herby deliciousness.

The mixture of textures and flavors is perfection and bodrigiani might be one of my favorite things that I’ve eaten. Ever.

It’s often served as an appetizer or a side dish and while it looks like you should be able to just pick up the glorious little eggplant pockets, don’t! Badrijani is to be cut into pieces and eaten with a fork.

Lobio

This fragrant bean stew is laced with spices, garlic and herbs and then served in a ceramic ramekin. It’s not a super thick stew on its own, but it’s usually accompanied by a kind-of dense, cornbread-like bagel.

Break off pieces of the bagel, toss them into the ramekin and then eat the stew with a spoon. Not only does this add more texture and thickness, but the bagel is super filling.

BONUS:

Black Wine  

Georgians love them some wine. A whole lt. The country is actually known as the cradle of wine, being home to the oldest known traces of wine production in the world.

Black wine is a national specialty. It’s aged in giant ceramic vats that are buried in the ground and is made of Saperavi grapes which give it its characteristic deep color.

Wine here is brought to the table in intimidating large pitchers. You then pour into small (by Western standards) glasses and then take long, large sips. Leaving wine in the pitcher at the end of a meal is considered poor taste, so bottoms up!