From the lookout in the Toompea section of Old Town at night.
Best: Walk
Kadrioru Park, the extended grounds of Alexander the Great’s summer estate. The massive property runs the gamut from dense forest areas to perfectly manicured gardens. Also houses the Office of the President and Kadriorg Palace.
Best: Unexpected Find
Just inside the long entrance to a local Beerhouse was a portion of a pirate ship. Next to the ship was a man from the Ivory Coast (about my age) dressed like a pirate. My curiosity was burning. Upon asking what the deal was, I was treated to a private tour of the Ship Restaurant.
You enter the ship, descend a staircase and are in a pirate ship. Every detail was perfectly in order and I was impressed by the complete commitment to the theme.
There was even a dungeon/torture chamber that (ironically) served as the smoking room. Pirtate ship in the basement of a beerhouse in Estonia, go figure.
Best: Awkward Moment
When I arrived at the harbor to catch mt ferry back to Helsinki and tried to check in, the woman behind the counter became very confused and started talking to another ticket associate. I took the opportunity to look around and realized that there were only about a half dozen other people in the departure hall. Odd. Turns out my ferry had just taken off – I got the time wrong by a half hour.
Then I was told that all other ferries for the evening were full. Hmm. I was placed on a stand-by list and told to check back in four hours. Fine by me, I was glad to have a few more hours in Tallinn. Four hours later I checked in again, but things are still booked. Now I was getting worried because my train to Russia was at 6am and I needed to be a ferry that night! At the last minute something opened up and I was able to hop on the last boat of the evening. It made for a late night followed by a very early morning, but everything worked out.
Best: Hidden Treasure
Less than a five minute walk from the Office of the President, an ultra-modern building rises from the hillside. It’s KUMU, the Art Museum of Estonia. I suppose its not really that hidden, but it wasn’t on my radar and stumbling upon it caught me completely off guard. It was closed, but the architecture was a work of art in itself.
Best: Grocery Store Find
Jarred soup starters.
Best: Exhibit
Soviet Era statues in a heap behind the Estonian National Museum.
Best: Texture
Glass exterior of the memorial cross in Vabaduse (Freedom) Square, celebrating Estonia’s liberation after WWII.
Best Monument
The Mermaid Guardian – In 1902 the Russian ship Revele crashed into the Estonian coast and the majority of passengers perished (the Russian Titanic).
The Mermaid now watches over the souls of those who died. Its custom to attach a lock to the chain surrounding the monument, in honor of someone who recently died, in order to have the Mermaid watch over the soul as well.
Best: Activity
Restoran – Olletehas Berrhouse (down the hall from the pirate ship) was an old fashioned tavern with live music, a livelier crowd, traditional dancing and a huge beer selection.
Communal seating at long wooden tables made it impossible not to meet new people. Like the group of 35 Armenians living/working in Tallinn and out for a night on the town. Or a group of Russian women how unknowingly ordered the largest stack of ribs on the menu and were then reduced to a fit of laughter.
