With a population of 1.3 million people, Perm was not the quaint central-Russain town we had envisioned.

It was a stronghold during the Soviet Era and served as a main point of industry.  As such, access to the city was limited to residents and military personnel.

Perm, has however seemed to realize the importance of tourism – they have a helpful tourist office and are trying to modernize.

But things remain in a state of flux and businesses constantly change locations (like the main post office, which we spent 3 days looking for and never found).

Best: Exhibit
Perm M, modern art museum.

There was an incredible exhibition by Valery Koshlyakov, Unreachable.  He presented symbols of the classical world using contemporary mediums – paint on cardboard, styrofoam, wire.

I loved everything about the exhibit; the colors, the lines, the structure within chaos. I dug it.

Best: Activity
Our new friend Vasil really took us in and showed us his city!  He’s an avid rally car racer and is active in a little known underground event within the city – Encounter.

Even though the infrastructure of Perm has yet to modernize, the current generation of twenty-somethings are actively bringing a new vitality to the city.  There are city-wide activities, challenges and games.  Encounter is a city-wide scavenger hunt in which teams race from clue to clue around the city via car.

We had a chance to follow the first few hours of the event (they can last for days).  Had Conor and I not been clued into the event and had come across the race teams, we might have been startled…camoflauge-clad people jumping out of cars, running around with flashlights in the middle of the night.  Vasil told us that sometimes people are concerned by the scene, in which case participants simply say that are searching for the President’s cat.

Best: Walk
The Green Line.  Only in service three months when we rolled through, The Green Line travels the city sidewalks to highlight major points of interest.

Each stop has a placard with a description and history of the site – with English translations!  Its a huge development for tourism within the city.

Best: Unexpected Find
Far and away, it was Vasil.  He truly made our time in Perm unforgettable and exposed us to things that we wouldn’t have had access to otherwise.

Our excursion to the abandoned missile silo ruins stands out as a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  Thanks Vasil!

Best: Grocery Store Find
Kvass.  Its only 1-2% alcohol and made from bread.  It wasn’t really my taste, but is apparently the refreshing beverage of choice in the summer.

Best: Awkward Moment
Loco Gringo mexican restaurant.  We couldn’t resist seeing how Russians interpret Mexican cuisine.  The restaurant’s tacky and confused saloon-style decor – think an assortment of sombreros, Corona flags, Coca-Cola decor, cow-hide patterned seats and American concert posters – was almost as entertaining as the perplexing, if not informative menu.

When our food arrived, we couldn’t help but laugh.  Our quesadilla and burrito resembled plastic thanks to a smothering of bright orange, liquid nacho cheese.

Authentic? Not a chance. Worth it? Totally.

Best: Monument
Though we only had time to drive by, there is a huge memorial/shrine outside the Lame Horse Nightclub.  In 2009 a firebroke out during a performance and over 100 people were killed.  We met a young woman whose father and sister were killed in the blaze.  The club remains closed, but stands as a constant reminder of the tragedy.