Man oh man, do I wish I knew these Gobi hacks before I ventured into the desert. Life on the steppe is much different than, well, most everywhere else. It’s a place where you can go hundreds of miles without seeing another human and a place that can be unforgiving to the ill-prepared.

Learn from my trial and error to ease into life in the Gobi.

Check you vanity at the door – You’ll need to alter your standards of sanitation and personal hygiene. Bring a mirror if you must (they’re a rare commodity), but you may not actually want to look at yourself after a few days. You will stink and look like crap.

Mentally prepare yourself for a complete lack of modern amenities – There will be no electricity. There will be no plumbing or Western toilets. You will have to go to the bathroom outside (squat toilets or out in the open baby!), sometimes in front of others. Wrap your head around all that and get over it before you leave or it will be a long, uncomfortable trip. (Bring: deodorant and baby wipes – just as good as a shower, right?)

Keep your feet warm in the van- When driving around the steppe in between Ger stops, prop your feet up on your bag to help keep them warm. The metal van will literally freeze overnight and placing your feet directly on the floor is the equivalent of standing barefoot on an iceberg.

Don’t leave water bottles in the van overnight! – See above. They will turn into blocks of ice and be completely useless.

Bring a metal water bottle– At night, fill that sucker up, place it on the hearth until hot, then stuff it into a spare sock and throw it into the bottom of your sleeping bag. Ta-da, instant foot warmer (at least for the first hour or two anyways).

Pack candles & lighters/matches & flashlights– These probably won’t be provided and you’ll be in utter darkness in the evenings without them. Also bring extra batteries for your flashlight…there is nothing worse than stumping around in the freezing darkness trying to find the outhouse.

Don’t freak out if you hear sounds in the night – Its probably just the sheep.

Be proactive and collect firewood (re: dried dung) – Preferably before it gets dark. Before going to bed, draw straws with your Ger-mates to see who is on fire-duty for the evening. This person has the responsibility of keeping the hearth glowing for as long as possible – it is a lonely, miserable, yet essential job.

Create space– Living in close quarters can make getting dressed a challenge. Sure, you can ask people to stand outside while you change, but sometimes the extreme weather makes that cruel and unusual punishment. Instead, hang a blanket or sleeping bag from the Ger rafters and make a private dressing room.

Bring paper and pens– Group games help to pass the time. You can also try to write or journal, but honestly the ride is so bumpy that you’ll just end up with a page full of scribbles.

Learn to love milk tea– You will be drinking a lot of it! You may never actually love the taste, but just tell yourself it’s a latte – mind over matter.