This weekend I wish that I could be back in Aalborg, Denmark because its Carnival weekend! Actually, the festivities have already begun; its five days of celebration that culminates in the Grand Parade and Park Party on Saturday.
While most people are familiar with Brazilian Carnival, few are aware that Aalborg’s Carnival is the largest in Northern Europe and sees the city’s population swell by over 100,000 people.
Carnival at its core is a celebration of life, vitality, community and letting go of inhibitions. Four years ago I was smack-dab in the middle of the debauchery. I’d like to say that I did my best to get a sense of the cultural implications of the event, but hey, I was 21 and all I wanted to do was be a part of the crazy. And in hindsight, that’s kind of the whole point of the thing – to be a part of IT!
Everyone woke up early on Saturday (early as in 7am which was unheard of for most students) and converged on the Student House for an Erasmus breakfast of toast, jam, cookies and shots of Akvavit.
After breakfast we headed to Kristin’s flat and got dressed for the Grand Parade. Our costumes were pretty random, but at least we made an effort on a shoe-string budget.
Once decked out and a few more beers deep, we proceeded to the fjord for the beginning of the parade. We arrived just in time to see the Carnival Princess disembark a ship on the fjord and officially begin the festivities.
It was only 9am and nearly everyone had a beer in hand. We knew then that this would be a looong day. The parade was like nothing I’d ever experienced before. There were some fantastic costumes and everyone was in a joyous mood, mingling and having a blast.
I found this to be a striking juxtaposition to the normal attitude and demeanor of the city. True, Danes love to drink and socialize, but never before had I encountered this level of openness, acceptance and inclusion in the community.
In addition to the general population the parade also featured floats, professional dancers, live music and scores of entertained spectators.
The whole thing was outrageous and uncontrolled. Sure, there were Politi and security during the day’s events, but they really just stood back and watched the insanity.
By day’s end, city was completely disheveled. (Amazingly it was spotless the next morning.) If you arrived a day late, you would have no idea that Carnival happened at all.
The Grand Parade culminated in a Party at Kindleparken – a huge park in the heart of the city. Security tried to keep people from bringing alcohol into the park (in order to force you purchase beverages inside) and the volume they successfully confiscated was astounding.
Inside the park was pure insanity. The hours of sun, drinking and parading around town were clearly catching up with the crowd; thousands of belligerent people rocking out to a battle of the bands, dancing up a storm and letting lose. Such fun. Its something that I think everyone should experience at least once just to understand the sheer joy of communal catharsis.
crazy public urinals
Following a few hours at Kindleparken we wandered to a friend’s flat and took a nap. It was 3pm and we were exhausted. But the day wasn’t over yet. All we needed was a power nap, some food, a change of clothes and then we were off to the bars. Yes, after a full day of craziness its customary to close down the bars on Jomfru too.
After my seemingly endless hangover subsided, I felt much more like a part of the community. And although in the days that followed all the Danes went back to their reserved selves, I felt fortunate to have seen them at their unbridled best – to see a side that they don’t often show in public.
For more Photo Friday goodness, head on over to Delicious Baby!
If you haven’t heard about the launch of Tripbase’s new Travel eBooks you must hop over and check them out. There are currently seven eBooks (!) on topics ranging from the best beaches to great foodie destinations. And they’re all FREE.
Better yet, for each person that downloads one of these bad-boys Tripbase will make a $1 donation to charity: water, a nonprofit that brings clean water solutions to developing nations. Talk about a win-win!
I’ve decided to get involved by sharing my 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets (and downloading all of the eBooks of course!).
In no particular order they are:
1. Rooftop Library Lookout – Warsaw, Poland
A hidden oasis, the Rooftop Gardens of the University of Warsaw Library provide an escape from the hustle of the city.Covering almost 2.5 acres, the gardens offer stunning 360-degree views of Warsaw (the Palace of Culture and Science can be seen prominently to the west).
The botanical diversity of the gardens is impressive on its own, but throw into that, cascading water features, sculptures, and ivy covered bridges and pergolas and you’ll forget that you’re in the 9th largest city in the EU.Pack a picnic lunch and stake out a bench for a relaxing afternoon in Poland’s own inner city Eden.
2. Göteborgs Choklad and Karmellfabrik – Göteborg, Sweden
If you’ve ever heard the term foodgasm and are perplexed by its meaning, take trip to Choklad and Karmellfabrik. Located midway between Gustav Adolfs Torg Square and the Göteborg Opera house, this confectioners shop is tucked away in the same courtyard that houses Kronhuset, the oldest commercial building in Göteborg.
While the establishment is small, it’s hands down my favorite chocolate and candy shop. Anywhere. Ever. The staff is beyond friendly and will let you taste test any and everything you want. Don’t leave without grabbing a few Bimbo-Blondies (they are the definition of foodgasm). Also not be missed are the lollipops designed to be dipped in beer. Skål!
3. Hostel Resbalosa – Cusco, Peru
Two blocks up the hill from the Plaza de Armas, Hostel Resbalosa is a low-key alternative to the typical backpacker party hostels that litter Cusco (beds run $7-$30 depending on the room set-up).
However, it’s a cozy spot with a fantastic rooftop terrace that overlooks the whole city. Whether enjoying breakfast over the sunrise or gawking at the city lights a night, you cannot beat the view! Add to that a frisky feline named Muchin roaming the halls and you have the perfect place to unwind after a day of hiking around the Andes.
And a bonus:
* Motorbike to the Big Buddha – Phuket, Thailand
During a trip to the island of Phuket you MUST rent a motorbike for a day to explore the island. And not to be missed is a ride up the Nakkerd Hills through the jungle to the hilltop Big Buddha. After walking through a serene Buddhist shrine you ascend a staircase to the base of the statue.
The Big Buddha rises nearly 150 feet, is encased in Burmese marble and can be seen from most parts of the island. In person, up close, you come to appreciate this feat of engineering (the marble casing was hoisted by hand on wooden and rope scaffolding). Spectacular. Oh, yeah and the panoramic views of Phuket, the surrounding islands and the Andaman Sea don’t suck either.
I wouldn’t call myself a cycling enthusiast (I don’t own a killer road bike or follow the sport religiously) but I do enjoy a good bike ride and I’m a fan of high energy sporting events.
Enter the Amgen Tour of California. In its fifth year, the event has become the largest cycling event in America and I decided that I really couldn’t miss the opportunity to witness it first-hand.
Reason #1 I like this event: It didn’t start until 11:30am! I’m used to waking up before the sun to get ready for running events so I have to say that these biker guys have it pretty easy.
I drove up into the hills to Auburn to catch the pack in a mellow environment.
After waiting about 45 minutes, the riders finally appeared. Everyone cheered. And then they were gone. I couldn’t believe how quickly the moment passed. Lots of waiting for a few seconds of excitement.
Leaders
I was also stunned by how many police motorcycles and other vehicles passed by before the riders. Seemed like overkill to me.
Next stop was downtown Sacramento at the State Capitol for the finish.
This was a much more exciting place to view the race – there was a huge crowd and the energy was incredible.
One lap to go!
Not to mention the riders passed by the same spot four times as they circled the Capitol (made the hour-long wait a little less ridiculous).
Luckily I came prepared for the wait.
Mark Cavendish won the Stage and missed out on several crashes that consumed most of the field just 3km from the finish. Pays to be fast.
About a month ago, two lovely travel buddies, Dominic and Alister, returned home from a year long around-the-world trip. Today, Dom posted pics from the time they spent in India. Never having been there myself, I voraciously scrolled through the photos.
Pretty awesome.
And inspiring.
To what end you ask? Enough to prompt me to purchase tickets and plan a trip?!?!?
I wish! But, unfortunately, no. Bummer. But it was inspiration for something a bit more immediate.
Several weeks ago I took an Indian cooking class at the Sacramento Natural Food Co-op (love that place!) and tonight seemed the ideal time to try out some of the recipes.
The only thing lacking was someone to cook for as the hubby was in class all night. So, I cooked an Indian feast for myself. Why not right?
It just means there will be some delish left overs for the next few days.
Butternut Squash & Green Beans in Coconut Curry
Lentil Rice Pilaf
Shredded Carrot Raitha with Raisins & Walnuts
Yumm.
**India photos c/o: Dominic Flannery
After finding my way north to Aalborg and checking in with the International Student Coordinator from Aalborg Universitet, I was given the address to my new flat in the city. Which turned out not to really be in the city at all, but north of it, across the Limfjord in the town of Nørresundby.
Finding the flat was a challenge in itself, as the “street” was actually a tiny 50 foot long alley.
Up 3 flights of stairs was a small, bright studio flat.
Not much to it – a living/sleeping space, bathroom and kitchenette. But for one person it was perfect (save for the lack of an oven which I came to miss greatly).
Being the first time I had ever lived completely by myself without roommates, I was eager to unpack and get settled.
One of the best features of the flat was its proximity to a massive hilltop park that overlooked all of Nørresundby and Aalborg.
This park served as a running course (that hill was a killer!), quiet reading spot, bonfire venue, and sports field.
Almost everyone else in my courses lived south of the fjord, and the park became the only real reason for anyone to make the trip north.
Though Denmark certainly isn’t known for crime, I can honestly say that I have never felt more safe and comfortable anywhere else that I’ve lived. I had no apprehension living by myself, walking alone or exploring new neighborhoods. My only regret is that I didn’t spend more time checking out the surrounding areas.
Aalborg is the fourth largest city in Denmark with a population of just over 120,000 (when I was there, it was third largest – Odense grew).
One of the best aspects of the city is the ability to walk everywhere. There’s also a fabulous bus system that rarely gets off schedule.
Other great things about Aalborg:
City Center
Train Station
Main Post Office
View from Aalborg Tower
Beautiful architecture
Great churches
Budolfi Kirke
Jomfru Ane Gade – the largest stretch of bars/restaurants in Scandinavia and the center of much debauchery.
*Fun Fact: Jomfru also features several Morning Bars. So when the clubs close at 4am you can head over to a Morning Bar and continue the party. This means you can literally stay out partying/drinking for days at a time.
Boulevarden – most scenic main drag
Kildeparken
Just a quick 45 minute flight south of Bangkok, Thailand is the island of Phuket.
Craig and I spent part of our honeymoon on the island in 2007 and opted to forgo the common hostel-on-Patong-beach-scene and instead stayed at a bungalow hotel on Kamala Beach on the west coast.
We had an incredible honeymoon bungalow right across the street from the beach.
It was pretty horrible.
Much of Phuket was devastated by the tsunami in 2004. Most tourist areas are now rebuilt (and amazingly were in 2007, just three years after the disaster) and evacuation route markers stand as a constant reminder.
We were surprised with how varied the island was…Patong – crazy busy and conjested, yet just south is a stunning beach, nearly deserted.
We rented a motorbike one day and set out to explore the whole of the island (which turned out to be a bit bigger than we estimated, so we didn’t actually get around the whole thing).
After riding the bike up a steep, winding, dirt road we came to the top of a mountain in the center of the island. This is home to a giant marble Buddha.
He was getting a facelift the day we were there and his hair was lined up and waiting to be mounted.
Buddha’s view
In Phuket City we mailed our wedding thank you cards (after about 30 minutes of hilarious miscommunication) and found the most amazing coconut gelato.
We spent a day snorkeling around some small nearby islands.
And discovered that the fish LOVE bananas. Who knew? I never thought that I would have schools of fish nibbling pieces of bananas out of my hands.
Its not difficult to understand why Phuket has become such a popular destination.
For more Photo Friday goodness hop over to Delicious Baby
Four years ago today, I boarded a plane and flew half-way around the world to study in Denmark.
I was a junior in college, fiercely independent and was accustom to being in unfamiliar environments and not knowing a sole, having moved every few years during my childhood. But this was different. Not only would I not know anyone when I landed, but I would have to navigate in a foreign country and get myself from Copenhagen to Aalborg, 260 miles to the north.
My Danish skills were minimal at best and while I had been told that most Danes spoke English, I was nervous about not being able to communicate. However, my nerves were no match for the excitement I felt.
Finally, I was going to study abroad, just like my sister had done before me. I was going to be completely on my own, in my own flat, in a foreign country.
So while my parents were teary eyed (out of both excitement and concern for their youngest), I could not wait to get on that plane and be off.
In honor of Australia Day – celebrating the 1788 declaration of British rule – I give you:
The Art of Eating Tim Tams
Step 1 – Open Tim Tams
Step 2 – Pour a glass of milk
Step 3 – Bite off one corner of Tim Tam
Step 4 – Bite of opposite corner and place end of Tim Tam into milk
Step 5 – Suck milk through cookie
Step 6 – Eat the soft, yummy, goodness!
Also mandatory on this day is eating Vegemite toast. Mmmm, Vegemite.
At least we have plenty of other things to eat afterwards to get rid of the aftertaste.
What sounded like a fun, enjoyable hike to the peak behind Machu Picchu turned into a rather dangerous climb of insanity.
We were excited!
Sure we read the sign that said the hike was 1 hour, that you needed a heart to do it and that it was a steep path. Steep is not an appropriate word. Vertical would be the right word.
The rain started about the same time that the path got vertical. Narrow, steep stairs carved into the side of the mountain and a lack of hand rails made for a slippery and slow climb.
Oh and don’t forget the altitude factor – the summit sits at a cozy 8,600 feet.
After much huffing and puffing we finally got to the first terrace of buildings and walls. But there was still more to climb and as the peak’s surface area lessened, the feeling that we could literally fall off the mountain grew.
Seriously though, if you fell they would never find you. Its so high up. And made the massive Machu Picchu look tiny.
The last little bit of the climb was a slap in the face. You must scurry up a rickety ladder, then crawl through a water filled cave and climb out of a hole on the other side. At that point in the hike we did not appreciate the Incan humor.
But the view from the top was worth the struggle. Wow. What struck us most was how very high up we were and yet how very high we were not, as we were surrounded by other mountains whose peak’s reached far into the clouds.
Its what I imagine Nirvana to be.
Nirvana with a lot of other people and with the constant thought that those people may just knock you off the summit. So not really Nirvana at all. It actually got pretty scary with how crowded the space was.
And then there was the descent. Which was far more terrifying that the ascent.
Crazy steep. Crazy slippery.
And seriously lacking safety standards.
By the time we reached the MP ruins again we were exhausted. (Plus we haven’t really prepared for a hike and only had 1 bottle of water and 1.5 energy bars between 4 people).
Waynapicchu was definitely one of the highlights of Peru. A lot of work for a huge reward!
After much struggle, Machu Picchu lay before us. Though you’d never know it given the crazy thick fog. While waiting for the fog to lift we jumped in line to get passes to hike the Waynapicchu trail (only 500 are handed out a day).
With passes in hand and the fog lingering we opted to hike around the backside of the mountain to see the Inca bridge.
We were expecting the most impressive bridge ever. Instead we got a break in the cliff-side with a board over it. Really it was still impressive given the tools they had available during construction, but it wasn’t quite what we were expecting.
No fence necessary when you post an impeding death warning.
Through several downpours and a few hours we wandered the ruins.
And tried our best to stay dry.
Around 10am the fog finally took a break and we got our first really look at the ruins.
I don’t think words can adequately describe how amazing and impressive this place is.
First of all, its massive.
And is literally built on cliffs.
And is insanely intricate.
And ingenious.
Inca stairs
And full of little surprises.
And is constructed beautifully.
Its hard to imagine just how the Incas were able to build everything. How long must it have taken to haul the stone up here? How the hell were they able to cut the stones so precisely?
Its unbelievable.
Not to mention you’re in the middle of the largest mountain range in the world.
Pretty awesome.
Excited to nail down our transportation to the entrance of Machu Picchu, we walked through Auguas Calientes to the bus station. I had no cash left so Bobbi and Conor bought the tickets – 14USD each – which left Conor out of cash as well.
“No problem. We’ll just hit up the ATM and restock before dinner,” we thought. Easier said than done. The one operational ATM in town was currently out of cash, on a Friday night, and wouldn’t be restocked until Monday. Interesting.
Deceptive, as there’s no ATM inside
Heading back to the main drag of town we tried to find the cheapest dinner possible, which happened to be a set menu of Mexican food. Apparently Peruvians think Mexicans deep fry everything, because we got plates full of fried goodies includingtoceños; fried wonton-like sticks with cheese in the middle. Not sure what’s Mexican about that, but who’s counting?
Yay dinner!
Back at the hostel we waited for the manager to return to ensure that someone would be awake at 4am to lock up our packs for the day. Hours passed and she still hadn’t returned. Conor (the most experienced Spanish-speaker of the bunch) spent 45 minutes crafting a letter to leave under the admin door.
Naturally, minutes after he completed it, she came back. Haha! Our rooms were basically in an apt. building and Bobbi and my room shared a window as a wall with a local family. (Looking behind the curtain we could literally watch them eat dinner.) We came to find out that they like to play American 80’s pop music really loud late at night and are prone to domestic disputes and throwing furniture. Not the best night of sleep ever.
AC in the am
But we shook it off when we got up at 4am and were stoked to finally make the accent to Machu Picchu. There was already a line at the bus station so in the rain and cold we jointed the crowd. Then Craig noticed a curious sign stating that travelers MUST purchase MP admission tickets in Auguas Calintes. This was curious considering our guide book made it very clear that tickets could be purchased to the entrance. We asked around and yes, we needed to buy tickets here before boarding the bus.
With time wasting away, Conor and Bobbi ran to the Cultural Center for tickets. Again, despite what our guide book told us, they did not accept USD or credit cards and we were fresh out of soles. Naturally, both the exchange offices in town were closed. By chance a jewelry store was open (why at 4:30am!?!) and the owner agreed help out. He slowly examined every bill and those with creases or tears were rendered unexchangable.
All we had left
The buses began to fill up as Craig and I stepped out of line to wait. Conor and Bobbi arrived winded after sprinting from the jewelry store to the Cultural Center and back to the bus station.
TICKETS!
We ended up on the 5th bus of the morning and as we drove out of town we could finally relax. It was only 5:20am.
Breakfast on the bus
The ride up the mountain was all super-sharp switch-backs and in the rain and fog it was slow going.
When we finally arrived at the entrance to Machu Picchu, we truly felt that we had earned the right to see this place. (But with the thick fog we wondered how much we’d actually get to see).
*At the end of day as we walked back to the bus, we passed an admin office. We were shocked (and horrified) to see admission tickets for sale.
So you can buy tickets at the entrance. FML
From Cusco, the next stop on the road to Machu Picchu is the mountain town of Auguas Calientes. To get there we took a 1.5 hr. cab ride north of Cusco to the city of Oyllentaytambo (which cost a whopping 40 soles = 14USD)
The countryside was stunning. Switchback roads through snow-capped mountains, wide open plains dotted with lakes and a great “Gringo Mix” tape made the time fly by.
With 5 people and 4 packs, the cab was pretty weighty and going over speed bumps proved challenging – we nearly had to come a stop each time before ever-so-slowly rolling over the top to avoid bottoming out.
Once in Oyllentaytambo we headed to the train station and tried to meet up some other travelers. However, we were stopped by security, told that our packs were too large and thus we needed to pay a “large bag” fee.
Trying to stay positive
Apparently the standard is to leave you large pack in Cusco and only take a day-pack up the mountain. That would have been nice to know. Instead we got to pay 62 soles each for the extra weight (22USD). Needless to say we were not too pleased with the situation.
And little did we know that this was only the beginning of “Things that probably should have been included in the guide book.” Thanks.
Shockingly, the 1.5 hr. train ride included a complementary lunch which we spiced up with a few bottles of wine to calm ourselves down after being raped by the train station.
Upon arriving in Auguas Calientes we tracked down a hostel and headed to the bus station to buy tickets up the mountain for the next morning. For being such a quiet, quaint town, our time in AC turned out to be insanely stressful and chaotic. More on that next.
The calm before the storm in AC
…the pack of cab drivers incessantly asked. “Yes, Cusco. Gracias.”
The gateway to exploring Machu Picchu, Cusco, Peru is a vibrant town tucked into the Andes (flying in there are literally mountains just outside the window).
The drive from the airport to the city center is nearly all bumpy, dirt roads. There are tons of stray dogs and most buildings are made of mud bricks. I’m beyond impressed – the mountains are stunning, the air crisp and I can already tell this place is going to be awesome.
While tourism clearly dominates the town’s offerings (think Irish Pubs and trinket shops) there’s something strangely refreshing about it. Sure, its in your face sales tactics (“artists” selling their one of a kind paintings that just happen to be the same prints the “artist” on the next corner is hawking), but overall the pace of things is slow and relaxed.
Wandering the cobbled alleys up and down the hilly city center is exciting – there is something new and unexpected around every corner. Like llamas.
The town Plaza de Armas is much like any other South American Plaza, but again, there seems to be something different and special about it. OR, maybe its just the high altitude and thin air messing with your head.
I quickly became obsessed with the intricate wood carved balconies and doors that surrounded the Plaza.
The altitude is noticable in the form of shortness of breath and a slight headache, making a stop for coca leaves and coca tea a must upon arrival.
Lets be clear, coca leaves are gross. They taste horrible, but boy do they work! After a minute your mouth begins to tingle and you get light-headed just for a short time before your head becomes completely clear – head ache/pressure gone.
The shortness of breath takes a bit longer to overcome and you feel completely stupid for huffing and puffing after walking only a block.
A huge indoor market is just a few blocks from the Plaza de Armas near the Plaza de San Francisco. You can pretty much buy anything here.
Outside this legal market, locals sell goods and fruit on the street (which is technically illegal). Just after we passed by these vendors, a policeman knocked over several buckets of fruit and yelled at everyone to move along.
Another must in Cusco (and any Peruvian and Chilean city really) is downing a few Pisco Sours – ice, Pisco, lemon juice, sugar and egg whites blended to frothy goodness.
¡Salud!
Its official…the pup loves the snow!
Dixon was a bit apprehensive when we arrived in Tahoe. Considering it was a new environment, without grass that was dark, cold and windy, I can’t really blame the little guy.
But come morning he couldn’t get enough.
I see many a repeat trip in the months to come.
Just north of Melbourne, Australia is the suburb of Montmorency. This is home to the Sweeney family. And on the north end of Montmorency is a hugh expanse of undeveloped land that serves as a meeting place/home for scores of kangaroos.
While roos are novel to pretty much the entire world, they are seen as pests to Aussies – some even call them a plague on the country. Severe overpopulation has lead to roos entering residential neighborhoods and reeking havoc on landscaping and posing a threat to domesticated animals.
We saw one hopping around a neighborhood on the way home.
And while they look cute and cuddly, they’re extremely powerful and dangerous animals. (Picture hugh claws and super-powered kicks).
At the paddock we saw 75-100 roos – just relaxing in the evening sun. We could get fairly close (about 30 feet) before they moved away. What caught us by surprise was the attention they paid to us. As soon as we arrived, they just stared at us and only looked away to move in the opposite direction.
Watching them move was amazing – it looks a bit awkward with a giant tail balancing an even bigger body. But it was mesmerizing.
There were several joeys, some hopping around, and others peering out of their mothers’ pouches.
On our last visit to Australia, Craig and I have the opportunity to pet and play with a joey that had been abandoned by its mother. The mother of one of Court’s friends worked as an animal rescue specialist and took abandoned and injured animals into her home to rehabilitate before releasing them back into the wild.
The joey’s legs were impossibly long for its body and he was really clumsy; still learning to use his tail for balance. He had a makeshift pouch to sleep in that was a blanket strapped to a chair.
On this trip was also tried some kangaroo steak (sorry roos!) and it was actually really good. Not to mention its about the leanest meat out there – go figure.
*SueSweeney, Alison Ramey (cousin) and Conor O’Brien (bro) contributed photos to this post.
**For more Photo Friday goodness hop (no pun intended) over to Delicious Baby
Even though we were only in Sydney for 4 nights, we spent quite a bit of time exploring the city’s bar/club scene. Here’s a quick review of a few fun spots:
AB Hotel– Great place to have a cheap drink (jugs of beer start at just $10AUD!) and grab a bite to eat. There’s tons of seating and several pool tables spread over 3 levels and the top floor bar is a giant aquarium. [in Glebe]
Ivy – Just off of George Street (the entrance is actually down an alleyway and up a massive flight of stairs which is hazardous on the way down – esp. after some drinks). But, its not hard to find – just follow the stream of 20-something girls in skimpy dresses and sky-high heels to a line snaking around the building.
Court and Luke
Beyond that first impression, this place is a site to behold. It boast numerous bars and restaurants on multiple floors with an open-air courtyard in the center. The decor and lighting are impeccable and cocktails are served in yellow cups that look plastic but are actually ceramic – cute. They’ve got great appetizers but drinks are generally overpriced, and sipping a glass of champaign seems obligatory. It might not be your scene, but its worth a visit just to check out the enormity of the place. [in the Central Business District – CBD]
The World Bar – Fantastic bar! The big draw here is the teapots. Various drinks, including long island ice teas are served in white ceramic teapots. Simply pour your drink into a shot glass and take shots all night long (order a few pots with different drinks and share). There are also several levels of nightclubs, all decked out with quirky decor (even Donald Duck makes an appearance – go Ducks!) Aside from the multitude of cockroaches on the outside patio, this was one my favorite bars. [in Kings Cross]
See Donald in the lower right! (photo via theworldbar.com)
Teapot Rules: In accordance with our responsible practices and government
focus on unsafe drinking behaviours, anyone seen drinking from the spout
of a teapot will politely be asked to leave.
The Lord Nelson – in The Rocks, this is the oldest continually run hotel that now is also home to a microbrewery. They’ve got their brews, plus imports (even Magners from across the pond) and house special cocktails. Looks and feels like a pub and offers a full menu as well.
Bar Broadway – Laid back atmosphere, diverse clientele and strong drinks make this a great stop on any bar hopping adventure. [in the CBD]
Trash – Kitty-corner to Bar Broadway, this multilevel club and music venue changes name and theme by the night. Be ready for a mix of rockers, goth enthusiasts, preppies letting loose and the occasional international (like us!). You can’t help dancing in the fog machined, lighting madness. [in the CBD]
This year I celebrated Thanksgiving in Melbourne, Australia with my sister’s Aussie in-laws, the Sweeneys. The holiday fell on the last day of a 10-day adventure through Melb. and Sydney with my cousins Matt & Ali.
First thing to note is that Thanksgiving means nothing in Australia. Its not a holiday, so over the 10 days of travel as we mentioned our plans for a giant feast we got some odd stares. I had sent a box ahead to SueSweeney, the chef extraordinaire, so that she had the essentials that are difficult to find outside the US: non-metric measuring cups, pumpkin spice, Thanksgiving decorations, cranberry sauce, stuffing mix, etc.
News that SueSweeney would be cooking an American Thanksgiving dinner spread quickly through Melb. and soon the guest list topped 26 people – the largest group ever to assemble for a meal at the Sweeney abode.
We had the Sweeneys + Darren, the Electric Jellyfish + girlfriends and groupies, the Tzimokas fam, friends, friends, friends, and the Americans
Now SueSweeney is quite accomplished in the kitchen and loves to cook, but the thought of cooking a completely foreign meal for 26 was a bit daunting. Ali and I were fully prepared to help as much we could – we pictured ourselves chopping, peeling, cutting and prepping up a storm so the pro could work her magic.
However, when we arrived at the house, SueSweeney gave us a tour of the kitchen:
- It was spotless (we made the mess in pic above – messy Americans!)
- Everything was already prepped (as in, the carrots were peeled and cut, the potatoes were peel, cut and boiled waiting to be mashed, the lettuce was washed and chopped and everything was in its own Tupperware container waiting to be prepared)
- By 9am Thanksgiving morning Sue had already baked Pavlova, chocolate fudge cake and 2 pumpkin pies (she is a machine!)
Beyond impressed, we asked to see the turkey (which had been special ordered since most grocery stores/butchers don’t stock whole turkeys). I could not contain my laughter when SueSweeney pulled the bird out of the fridge – it looked like a rotisserie chicken and was a mere 3 kilos. 3 kilos! That’s only 6.6 lbs. To feed 26 people (my parents had a 24 lbs. to feed 17). Ha!
Luckily there were also a few whole chickens. Additionally, the meal included:
- mounds of mashed potatoes
- tomato, onion casserole goodness
- sautéed carrots
- green beans and cherry tomatoes
- stuffing and rolls
- 3 varieties of cranberry sauce (c/o my mother’s efforts)
- and a delish salad
Needless to say, SueSweeney outdid herself.
At the start of the meal the Americans explained a bit about the holiday and once everyone was served we went around the table and each person said what they were thankful for. This was at the request of the Aussies actually – my fam has never done this tradition.
We ended the night with obligatory shots of Bundy (“rum” that pretty much tastes like drain cleaner) and fresh passion-fruit.
It was a great meal with even better company. And the Aussies were stoked to have participated in a real Thanksgiving celebration.
*We had a few guests convinced for awhile that there was also a Thanksgiving Eve Bonfire Holiday and that it was traditional to give Thanksgiving gifts! Haha!
So its pretty obvious that the blog has seen a bit a neglect in the last few weeks. Lo siento. I thought I’d be on top of things and blog during my trip to Australia, but internet time was much more sparse than expected (I only checked email once the entire trip!)
Add to that the 3.15 inch tall (yes I measured it) stack of paperwork that greeted me when I arrive home and vuala – lack of blog action. Now comes catch-up time.
With Fall officially over today and Christmas only 23 days away (yikes!) I can’t help but feel that this year has flown by. Where did this year go!?! I have yet to finish gift shopping or get out decorations or get a tree.
There’s so much to do and yet by the time I get home from work and the gym around 5pm its completely dark and all I want to do is curl up w/a blanket and some tea. That, or jump back on a plane headed south where it is summer and the sunlight and warmth lasts well into the evening. If only!
Thus comes my new word/mantra for the time being:
Pretty sure if I keep repeating this little word to myself I might get something accomplished this week. Here’s hoping!
On a trip to Cleveland last October, the fam decided to get out of the city and spend some time in Amish Country. In the course of several Google searches for things to do, I came across an intriguing place called The Farm.
Sidebar: central Ohio is surprisingly beautiful.
We arrived at The Farm fairly late in the day and were the only people there.
After feeding some goats we jumped on a flat bedded carriage and our guide led us into the animal preserve.
From the description online, we were aware that The Farm housed some fairly unusual animals, but we had no idea they would all live in the same preserve.
We’re talking buffalos and zebras living with potbellied pigs and reindeer.
And they all were wise to what the carriage represented – food!
The llamas were absolutely ruthless in their quest for grub. They pushed other animals out of the way, snuck their heads under the benches and knocked over food buckets to get their fill.
Our guide also warned us to watch out for the zebras, “You can never trust a zebra!”
After a ride through the woods (to grandmother’s house we go) we got to the giraffe enclosure. The Sweeneys (Aussie fam) have a real thing for giraffes and they were beyond excited to get to the see the giraffes up close.
Some of the smaller animals had their own enclosures (so they didn’t get trampled by the larger residents). There was everything from pheasant, monkeys and porcupines to lemurs, akeda and emu.
And there were even kangaroos and wallabies to which Courtney remarked, “these are so much better than the ones we have at home!”
It was crazy to see so many exotic animals in the middle of Ohio. So out of place, but it made for an unexpectedly amazing day.
Amish house
For more Photo Friday head to Delicious Baby
In the middle of nowhere in Central Jutland, Denmark hides the largest limestone mines in the world – Mønsted.
Before entering the caves, a guide discusses safety procedures and everyone must agree to wear hard hats. It’s even suggested that anyone who takes the hard hat off will be fined.
They take safety seriously in DK
We soon found out that our guide was a comedian and the hard hats were optional.
Rockin’ the hard hats and entering the caves
Upon entering the caves the temperature immediately drops nearly 20 degrees and continues to drop the deeper you walk. In some places the caves feel like an open warehouse, in others you must crawl through.
Yay for caves!
Note that it’s May and we’re wearing wool jackets
over hooded sweatshirts – it was a bit chilly underground
Aside from the relative novelty of wandering around in a cave, the main draw to Mønsted is bats. The winter sees an influx of more than 10,000 bats for hibernation (the largest population in Northern Europe). My visit was during the early May so there were nowhere near that many, but several thousand call Mønsted home year-round.
There are 60km of caverns and passageways, although only the initial 2-3km are open to the public.
Two underground lakes help regulate the temperature of the caves and the combination of constant temp and high humidity make this an ideal place to mature cheese. At any given time 200-250 tons of cheese are housed in Mønsted.
Over the largest lake a video presentation, explaining the formation and history of the cave, is projected on the walls and the water’s surface. The translation wasn’t the best which made the video a bit difficult to follow, but the effect of viewing it on the walls and water was pretty impressive.
A quick 7 miles to the east is the city of Viborg. The two lakes that flank the city offer great boat rides to see some great unique Danish architecture.
All in all the day at Mønsted was wonderful. Its somewhat arresting to stop and think about how much goes on underground that we (collectively) are completely unaware of on a daily basis. Kinda makes me feel like a small fish. Skol!
*For more Photo Friday fun pop over to Delicious Baby
Photo by Jonathan Young of Love Captures Photography
1. Pumpkin Spice teas & lattes
2. Changing leaves
3. Scarfs
4. New slippers
5. College football
6. Homemade Soup
7. Fireplaces
8. Costume Making
9. House full of candles
10. Pumpkin seeds
11. New jackets
12. Holiday parties
13. Frost & Fog in the morning
14. Hot chocolate
15. Movie nights
16. Cozy Blankets
17. Reasons to dress up
18. Anniversaries
19. Candy Canes
20. Trivia Night
21. Apple Cider
22. Steamy showers
23. Layers
24. Reasons to stay in
25. Snuggling
26. New dresses
27. Running in long sleeves
28. Holiday decorating
29. Baking
30. Boots
Just an hour’s train ride east of Prague, Czech Republic is the sleepy town of Kutna Hora – a nice change to the hustle and bustle of the capital city.
While the atmosphere of the town is subdued and quaint, a very other-worldly and bizarre chapel draws curious travelers.
Nothing about the exterior seems particularly special or strange about this church on the edge of town.
But this is Sedlec Kostnice. Also known as the Bone Church or The Ossuary.
Inside this petite chapel are the bones of over 40,000 victims of the great plague. The bones were dug up, collected, cleaned and then used to create near works of art.
The bones are positioned to form ornate decorations and objects ranging from garlands and vases to pyramids and a gargantuan chandelier.
This is truly a strange place and I had mixed feelings about gawking at the tens of thousands of bones strewn about the room.
On one hand, this chapel represents the deaths of thousands of people from a disease that they knew little about.
On the other hand, I was completely fascinated. Its grotesque and yet you can’t turn your eyes away. You want to see more – see what else has been created.
Aside from Sedlec Kostnice, Kutna Hora boasts spectacular views of the country-side from the courtyard of the Cathedral of St. Barbara.
Renovations on the Cathedral
Another surprise of the town are a myriad of art studios, galleries and shops lining the streets that fan out from the main square.
Sidebar: Czech Republic is home to the original Budweiser Beer called Budweiser Budvar. Anhueser-Busch stole the brand name in the late 1800’s to create American Budweiser Beer. They registered the name so now Budweiser Budvar that’s imported to the US is sold under the name Czechvar. (The original is waaay better).
Happy Halloween!
*For more Photo Friday goodness hop over to Delicious Baby
In honor of Slovakia securing its place in the 2012 World Cup Finals – its first ever!
In Summer 2006, after spending a term studying in Denmark, my Aussie pal Jules and I traveled around Europe to kill time before heading back to real life. After some time in Vienna we took a ferry down the Danube to Bratislava.
We had done some research and found the cheapest place to stay in the city was University Housing which cost us about $3/night. Nearly all the students were away for the summer so the University rented out the dorms as a hostel. Sweet, so far so good.
After a nice very old man (with a curious bucket of purple water and a small hatchet) figured out where we trying to go, we boarded a local tram and headed north. About 40 minutes later we arrived at the University. Ok, so maybe its not quite in the city, but whatever.
The University buildings were literally crumbling and the facade was riddled with bullet holes. The property on a whole looked like something out of bad horror movie; isolated, dark, dilapidated, cold. A forgotten place. Well this is cozy.
Our dorm was sparse at best, but was absolutely what we paid for. There was a small bar on the main floor that showed signs of life, but the general vacancy of the property was a bit eerie.
Exploring the digs we were shocked to discover a virtually new athletic track on the far side of a small hill. It seemed very out of place and made me think that perhaps the budget committee could have put the money to better use in the form of general upkeep.
We opted not to head back into the city and instead had some bread and Nutella for dinner and then checked out the bar. We met the most diverse group of people; locals who lived nearby, Italian, Hungarian and Chinese students who decided not to go home for the summer, a Syrian student whose father had driven out to visit him for a few weeks.
Each wanted to share their story and a few offered us some beverages from their home country. So while the aesthetics weren’t anything to brag about, the atmosphere among the few inhabitants made up for it. (That is, aside from the Syrian father who kept feeding us drinks and then wanted us to stay the night in his room so he could drive us to the country the next day – we passed on this opportunity).
The days that followed were spent wandering the city and surrounding areas. Bratislava’s city center is very much like most other EE cities; beautiful old buildings line meandering cobbled streets and various squares and plazas litter the way. What struck me though about Bratislava was the general lack of tourists, particularly given it was the middle of summer – high season.
Michael’s Gate
Maybe many people still view Slovakia through the guise of the Former Yugoslavia and think it an unwelcoming or unsafe destination? Quite the opposite is true. Sure Slovakia hasn’t made grand efforts to rapidly modernize and attempt to join the EU like Slovenia (in 2004) and Croatia (still trying), but its far from unsafe and even farther from unwelcoming.
In fact, nearly everyone we encountered was in a good mood and eager to help. Many were quite taken with Julia – a real Australian (with a strong accent to boot). The general vibe of the city was warm and calm; it seemed things operated at a slower pace than other European cities. Being some of the few travelers out and about, we felt like we had the city to ourselves.
Instead of spending money at a restaurant (god forbid we pay $4.00 for a meal!) we ventured to a grocery store for sandwich fixings and some local fare. Grocery shopping abroad is always an experience and here we found all kinds of oddities to keep us amused. After picking up some bread and mystery meat at the deli we tried our best to ask for a woman’s opinion on what kind of cheese we should buy. She pointed us in the direction of strings of cheese in a jar and circular slabs of cheese in a cellophane tube.
The cellophane tube cheese was not the right choice apparently. Not exactly tasty. Regardless, we enjoyed our lunch in the presence of some pretty outrageous water fountains in the square housing the Presidential Palace.
Bratislava is home to many sculptures and has turned several of them into tourist attractions in their own right. Scattered throughout the city are three sculptures of folk fame including Cumil, the Peeper.
On a hill to the west of the city center sits the imposing Bratislava Castle, which boast spectacular views of the city.
Our time in Bratislava disproved much of what we had heard previously and left us wishing that we had more time to explore other parts of the country. Oh well, guess we’ll just have to go back someday.
*For more Photo Friday goodness check out Delicious Baby
Back in April Craig, my brother and I headed to South America to meet up with one of my best friends (and running buddy Bobbi) who was traveling the continent for six months. We spent two crazy weeks bouncing around Peru and Bolivia before flying home from La Paz.
The last night we were in Bolivia was the day before Easter and as such most establishments were closed in observance of Holy Week. Pretty much the only place we could find that was open for dinner was an Indian restaurant (which actually sounded wonderful after eating countless meals of pollo con arroz y pappas fritas).
Craig and my brother opted for llama tikka masala (when in Rome) while Bobbi and I – plus other travel buddy Katee – went with the more domestic chicken and veggie tandoori and naan. While we cannot pinpoint for sure what it was (was it the llama? Maybe the Salteñas we had for lunch?), something made Craig veeeerrrry sick the next day, i.e. travel day.
culprit: llamas or salteñas
And by sick, I mean deathly ill. In fact we now refer to the whole debacle as Bolivian Death.
Below is an email that went out to friends and family after we finally made it back home.
date: Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 10:05 AM
subject: Home at last….
Hi Guys!
We made it home finally. Not sure how much you guys heard, but here’s the run-down:
Taxi to La Paz Airport – C about to pass out. Luckily only took 30 min instead of 45
At airport – taxi had no change so I got to run through the airport begging people for change for a $100. Old man takes pity on me. Pay cab. Check in at TACA – everyone there suggests Craig sees a doctor. He refuses, wants to get out of Bolivia. Start towards gate, but shockingly have to pay an airport tax ($24USD/ea!?! grrr) I pay while Craig runs to bathroom. At gate C in immense pain (should have seen the grimmace on his face). Throws up in the hall. Throws up in the bathroom. Throws up in a trash can. Security staff tries to get doctor for him. They are kindly told to leave. C too weak to carry anything. I become pack mule.
On Flight La Paz to Lima – C says he’s getting to the U.S. and then going to the hospital (good motivation). In bathroom the whole flight.
At Lima airport, 4.5hr layover – C can’t keep water or sprite down. Can’t sleep. Clutching stomach and groaning in between throwing up. I stock pile plastic bags for the flight. Check-in process at LAN is a nightmare unto itself. Starting to be like “Meet the Parents”…so much going wrong, its beginning to be funny (in hindsight only)
Flight 8.5hrs to LAX – Horrible. More the same. Only consolation was that we were in an emergency exit row (more leg room) right next to a bathroom. Few others are brave enough to use it.
LAX – get off plane and drag a nearly passed-out C through customs (he can barley open his eyes or stand up at this point) immediatly have airport staff call ambulance. LAFD shows up 20 min later (take your time guys – glad C didn’t have a heart attack). The drive to Centinela Hopital in Inglewood (word) is worse than the road to Uyuni. C groans louder.
Hospital – Admitted to hospital and hooked up to an IV drip of salene, antibiotic, and donnatel. Drinks green goop that makes his organs stop burning – first relief in 24hrs. C passes out while I get to contact Kaiser and the Airline to figure out how to get home since we will miss our connection. Eat bolivian easter chocolates intended for fam for breakfast…get stomach ache of my own. 5 hours later C is awake and able to stand/walk on own, discahrged and we cab back to the airport to wait another 2.5hrs to catch a flight to SFO.
SFO to home – Retrieve bags from left luggage people, put pack on, shoulder strap breaks. Waiting for bus to hit me. Have not slept yet, so starting to get delirious. Mom and Dad talking sounds like teacher from the Peanuts. Mad traffic on the drive to Sac. Stop at a Walgreens to fill prescription and get acceptable comida for C. Arrive at apt 9:30pm (12:30am Bolivian time) for a total travel time of 31hrs. Mushi greets us by throwing up.
I took an extra vacation day and we slept/rested most of yesterday. C still not great but he managed to keep soup down. Has appointment for tomorrow to make sure it was food poisening and not a parasite.
Hope the last 2 days have been far less eventful than ours.
-Kelly
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